South African Pinotage:
tasting by Decanter
After 22 years, Decanter holds a second Pinotage tasting of South African wines.
The second Pinotage tasting of South African wines (and the first in 22 years) was a great success. The judges praised the remarkable development evident in the extensive range.
Greg Sherwood MW, Victoria Mason and Roger Jones tasted 142 wines, identifying an impressive 7 “Outstanding” and 69 “Highly Recommended” ones.
The cliché that Pinotage is a true “Marmite” wine is definitely beginning to fade, as more and more producers are making high-quality wines. Especially thanks to the large-scale plantings and plots with older vines, Pinotage wines exude a true sense of place, with the best examples grown on all three main South African soil types: old sandstone, slate, and decomposed granite.
Like Chardonnay, Pinotage allows the winemaker to define their style. However, among the true strengths and unique selling points of the variety is the ability to produce a variety of dry red wines – wines with plenty of juicy fruit upfront, which also offer excellent medium to long-term aging potential.
Decanter's first Pinotage Panel Tasting took place in 1999. With an impressive 142 wines, the judges hoped for a true diversity of styles and a tremendous improvement in quality. After two full days of tasting, Victoria Mason said her expectations were more than met. She believed that Pinotage, from light and subtle to bold and powerful, is capable of producing delicious wines made in very different ways: “Harvested early to ensure lower alcohol content and excellent freshness, or harvested later with 14% to 15% alcohol, Pinotage has the ability to carry both ripeness and alcohol with harmony and balance on the palate with relative ease.”
Roger Jones championed the “crowd-pleasers”, saying they “should not be dismissed, as they highlight the chocolate and espresso fruit bomb style that so many consumers continue to seek out and enjoy.”
Mason added: “A common thread running through almost all the wines – and which we all commented on multiple times – was the refreshing acidity that created a balance with the concentrated, sweet fruits and higher alcohol levels.” Jones also pointed out the influence of regionality on the quality and style of the wines. While Swartland produced wines with “spice, texture and a dark blackberry wildness”, he found that Stellenbosch and the Cape South Coast, including Elgin and Cape Agulhas, delivered refined, elegant styles that were gentler on the fruit.”
Mason agreed: “The alcohol content was generally lower and the acidity almost refreshing, leading to such drinkable, palatable wines – wines very similar to their Pinot Noir and Cinsault heritage, redefining the old-fashioned notion of Pinotage.”
While the judges found some wines to be overly extracted and bloated, they were generally impressed with the oak management. Mason said: “The tasting repeatedly showed that Pinotage demonstrates a natural affinity for generous oak treatment – both French and American – and that it is equally comfortable unoaked or aged in large, old oak.”
It was fabulous to taste such a wide range of Pinotage wines and to experience how far these wines have evolved in terms of quality. All judges agreed that there are two dominant styles, and whether you prefer the light and subtle or the bold and powerful, quality and sophistication shone through in the top examples.
Discover all South African wines with ratings below.
BEESLAAR
Pinotage – 2018
Available from approx. end of March
95 Points by Decanter
The Beeslaar Pinotage presents itself in the glass with an intense ruby red color, indicating the wine's young age. On the nose, enchanting aromas of cherries and dark fruits, finding a wonderfully balancing harmony in the warm notes of cinnamon and cedar wood. Its richly opulent texture continues to develop wonderfully on the palate. It is recommended to decant the wine two hours before serving.
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
BEYERSKLOOF
Pinotage Reserve – 2018
CHF 16.90 instead of CHF 24.90
91 Points by Decanter
Beyerskloof was founded in 1988 and expanded its portfolio in 2001 to include Pinotage and Cape Blends. Beyerskloof owns 30 hectares of Pinotage vineyards in the Bottelary Hills region, considered one of the Cape's best Pinotage growing areas. Winemakers Beyers and Anri Truter select only the top 10 barrels for their Reserve range. Greg Sherwood MW: An exquisite aroma of violets and cherry blossoms is followed by a palate of crystalline beauty, tangy fresh acidity in a harmonious, seamless package of joy. Simply exceptional. Roger Jones: Fresh ripeness with a luxurious silky-velvet texture, blueberries, then cherries. A seamless, luxurious, silky liquid. Victoria Mason: Sweet raspberry and red plum aromas, with vanilla and spices. Big and powerful, but with refreshingly tangy acidity keeping the alcohol in check. Velvety tannins.
Sold out – Best Hit
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
CHOCOHOLIC
Pinotage – Screw Cap – 2021
CHF 9.90 instead of CHF 14.90
95 Points by Decanter
Darling Cellars is located on the west coast between Malmesbury and Darling. The cool, moderate climate suits a variety of different micro- and mesoclimates, which, along with the different soil types, lead to very diverse wine styles. The Chocoholic Pinotage comes from bush vines on decomposed granite soils. Greg Sherwood MW: The nose shows a multi-layered complexity of black cherry, notes of cherry liqueur, blueberry, and vinyl. Opulent palate with seamless tannins, harmonious acids, and a creamy, long length. Roger Jones: Cocoa and espresso on the nose. An explosion of berries and velvet on the palate. A fruit bomb, but great acidity and freshness. Victoria Mason: Aromas of espresso and roasted coffee over black and red plum fruit. Concentrated palate, with cherry fruit and distinct smoky bacon.
WOLF AND WOMAN
Pinotage – 2020
CHF 29.00
95 Points by Decanter
Jolandie Fouche was born in Cape Town and grew up in Swartland. After making a name for herself in the South African wine industry for over a decade, she decided to dedicate herself to her passion project, Wolf & Woman Wines. This Pinotage is made from grapes sourced from a single vineyard of bush vines in the Paardeberg region, dry-farmed on granite soils since 1973. Greg Sherwood MW: It has a dark fruit nose with exotic notes of peach shining through. The palate reveals a red plum, sweet-sour gloss with a subtle red cherry twist on the finish. Cool, mineral and elegant. Roger Jones: Polished nose, dark blueberries, with some marzipan and spices. Very bright, needs time. Wild strawberries on the finish. Victoria Mason: Fresh and inviting. Super juicy and fresh on the palate too – with a stony-mineral intensity. Tangy cherry acidity, very fine-grained tannins. A juicy, spicy note on the finish.
Sale
L’AVENIR
Pinotage – Single Block – 2018
CHF 39.90 instead of CHF 49.90
94 Points by Decanter
Herbaceous nose with clean and concentrated gentle cherries, blueberries, cedarwood, vanilla and a hint of savory notes. Elegant palate, fine-boned and structured with real class. Bright acidity, supported by great concentration.
Sold out – Best Hit
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
DE GRENDEL
Amandelboord – Pinotage – 2019
CHF 16.90 instead of CHF24.90
93 Points by Decanter
Aromatic scents of vine leaves, violets, crushed strawberries, blueberries and herbaceous notes. Very creamy on the palate, with plenty of concentration and fine-grained tannins.
Sold out – Best Hit
Sale
SPIER
21 Gables – Pinotage – 2017
CHF 31.90 instead of CHF 39.90
93 Points by Decanter
Outstanding aromas of pure oak, mint and spices, with undertones of tea leaves, blackberries and black plums. Seamless texture and balance, with a delicate, spicy character.
Sale
BEYERSKLOOF
Diesel – Pinotage – 2018
CHF 79.00 instead of CHF 95.00
92 Points by Decanter
Spicy nose with savory notes of cedar, cinnamon and chocolate over black cherry and plum compote. Fresh and firm textured on the palate.
Sale
DIEMERSFONTEIN
Carpe Diem – Pinotage – 2018
CHF 24.00 instead of CHF 29.00
92 Points by Decanter
Fresh fruity aromas of sour plums, blueberries, potpourri and polished oak. Harmonious and opulent with a precise, concentrated finish. Impressive and refreshing.
Sold out – Best Hit
Sale
GLEN CARLOU
Collection – Pinotage – 2019
CHF 24.90 instead of CHF 32.00
92 Points by Decanter
Complex aromas of intriguing crushed black pepper, blackberries, dark plums, smoke and fynbos. Very concentrated, rich and spicy, with a creamy texture.
All prices in CHF incl. VAT. Daily price as of 08.03.2022.
Offers valid while stocks last. Errors and price changes reserved.
