Wine Spectator
South Africa with an even larger wine selection
Wine from South Africa has come a long way in the last 30 years. The production of quality wines from the Cape only became more widespread in the 1990s, but already in 1995, the historic top wineries received excellent ratings from the Wine Spectator – some even appeared in its annual Top 100 list.
The market for South African wine in the United States grew slowly from 270,000 cases in 2000 to 1.1 million cases in 2019, as reported by Impact Databank. However, during the COVID-19 pandemic, these numbers skyrocketed, with imports to the USA tripling between 2019 and 2021, ending last year with an impressive 3.2 million cases.
What should you drink from South Africa? The answer is: almost anything from a winery known for its quality. Since my last report ("Charting Their Own Course," July 31, 2021), I have blind-tasted almost 175 wines, including bottlings from more than 60 different producers. The country's offering is diverse, including fresh sparkling wines, white wines and rosés, lively and full-bodied red wines, and delicious dessert wines. There is truly something for almost every palate.
At the entry level, some affordable bottlings offer good examples of the most important grape varieties grown in South Africa, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah among reds, and Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc among whites. Several versions available for $20 or less are perfect for stocking up for everyday enjoyment.
Even among the best wines from South Africa, value for money predominates. In this year's report, the average price of wines rated 90 points or more is $40 per bottle, and only seven of the wines examined are priced above $100. Unsurprisingly, the price is highest for the three highest-rated wines.
At $200, the 1694 Classification Stellenbosch 2017 from Rust en Vrede (95 points) is the most expensive red wine in this report, a rich version that is nonetheless supple and graceful, with good aging potential. It is a blend of Syrah (59%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (41%), with grapes sourced from the winery's oldest and best parcels. Reyneke, known as South Africa's first winery to receive biodynamic certification in 2008, has produced a vibrant, varietal bottling: the Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 2017 (95 points, $136, approximately CHF 133.-). And priced just under $100 (CHF 98.-), Porseleinberg shines with the winery's only bottling from the mountain peak in 2019: the Swartland (95 points, $95 - CHF 93.-). After fermentation in concrete tanks, this 100% Syrah was aged for 12 months in a blend of foudre (90%) and concrete egg (10%).
Despite the older vintage, the wines from Rust en Vrede and Reyneke are both new to the market. They were aged for about two years before bottling and given additional time in bottle before release. But these are outliers, as most of the red wines I tasted are from the 2018 and 2019 vintages, plus a few from 2020. The white wines are predominantly from the 2020 and 2021 vintages.
The final phase of grape harvesting for the 2020 vintage in South Africa was completed as countries went into lockdown due to the pandemic, but initial results were already evident for winemakers in the region. Following the drought and drastically reduced yields in 2019, the 2020 harvest delivered an almost normal-sized crop of clean, high-quality fruit in most major sub-regions of the country.
Regarding the 2020 growing season, Callie Louw, winemaker at Porseleinberg, says it was the “fifth season of below-average rainfall,” citing 14 inches in the winter of 2019. “We had good rains in October and December and an inch in January just before harvest, which was very helpful,” he says.
The year's rainfall was sufficient to promote vine development, leading to good flowering and fruit set. Although there were still some heat spikes in parts of South Africa in 2020, the weather was generally quite balanced. According to Louw, it was a beautiful, clean season, with some mildew pressure after the December rains, but nothing that negatively affected the ripening crop.
Ultimately, 2020 yielded slightly more than 8% more fruit than 2019, with red and white grape producers generally pleased with the results. "2020 is a beautiful vintage," summarizes Duncan Savage, whose 2020 Follow The Line Cape Town (92 points, $50) is a Cinsault-based red blend. "The wines are not as structured as 2019, '17 or '15, but show beautiful fruit and fine tannins. They are wines that are immediately pleasing and will provide enjoyment for many years to come."
“The good conditions led to a higher yield for both our Cabernet and our Syrah,” says Jean Engelbrecht, owner of Rust en Vrede. “I think the 2020 Cabernet was excellent. The tannin development happened without the accumulation of sugar and showed very supple.”
Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir have performed well in my tastings of the 2020 wines so far, and more red wine releases from the year are still to come. Among the wines currently on the market, however, it is the white wines of the 2020 vintage that shine as the stars of the vintage. Both Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc have stood out, producing many excellent examples. In fact, the 2020 harvest seems to be an almost all-around success for the various sub-zones and grape varieties of the Cape, and based on my ratings, I give the vintage an overall score of 93 points.
South Africa encompasses several distinct wine-growing regions, each with its own unique soils, climates, and conditions. True connoisseurs of the country's wines will delve into this diversity. But even those trying these wines for the first time or only occasionally will find something to enjoy, as the Cape is rich in vibrant, well-balanced bottlings. These wines are mainly made from well-known grape varieties, but with a South African expression, and they deserve a permanent place in any wine lover's wine list.
Sale
PORSELEINBERG
Boekenhoutskloof – 2020
CHF 75.00 instead of CHF 99.00
95 Points by Wine Spectator
Acidity and freshness characterize the nose. Round and quite rich in the middle. Racy. Zesty and grippy on the finish.
REYNEKE
Cabernet Sauv. – Reserve – Organic – 2017
CHF 99.00
95 Points by Wine Spectator
The nose presents aromas of blackberry and black cherry, followed by spicy notes and finally opens with darker undertones of cedar and black pepper. The palate is complex and multilayered with dark fruit and a fresh acidity on the mid-palate. A clear, graphite line typical of the farms' terroir runs through the wine. The wine is concentrated with juicy tannins and a seamless, everlasting finish.
Sale
RUST EN VREDE
1694 Classification – with wooden box – CFWI – 2017
CHF 119.00 instead of CHF 149.00
95 Points by Wine Spectator
Distinct aromas of red and black cherry on the nose paired with cassis, cedar, cumin, and ground coriander. Fine, ripe tannins embrace the palate with dominant notes of cherries and blackberries giving the wine backbone. Cedar spice, vanilla custard, and licorice create a harmonious complexity on the palate, well-structured and concentrated without being overbearing.
ALHEIT
Nautical Dawn – Chenin Blanc – 2020
CHF 49.00
93 Points by Wine Spectator
The wine reflects the tension of the elements in which it grows: the gentle glow of the Stellenbosch sun soaking the hills is overlaid by a cold, salty blast of the southeast wind. Yellow fruits and sweet herbs sing their familiar melody. The wine is mouth-filling and supple, salty and nimble. Beautiful long finish on the aftertaste.
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF
Syrah – 2018
CHF 39.90 instead of CHF 55.00
93 Points by Wine Spectator
The nose is dominated by dark fruits with aromas of blackcurrant, black olives, tar, and graphite. Lush, sweet, red and dark berries follow on an exceptionally complex palate with rich aromas of ripe plums, black cardamom, and hints of ground pepper and sweet tobacco. Nuances of cured meat and green olive tapenade contribute to the attractive spicy character of the structured mid-palate, with notes of milk chocolate coating the mouth. The wine is supple, medium- to full-bodied, with beautiful concentration, silky tannins, and a vibrant, balancing acidity. Red fruits and spices linger on the finish with classic nuances of white pepper and lively garrigue, giving the wine a Provençal character.
Best Hit
BOUCHARD FINLAYSON
Pinot Noir Tete de Cuvée – 2019
CHF 109.00 instead of CHF 135.00
93 Points by Wine Spectator – Jg. 2020
Brilliant and pure. Fresh cranberry and juicy plum aromas intertwine with savory exotic spices. Driven by supple and well-defined tannins, the wine glides elegantly along the length of the palate. A finely structured core of earthy salinity leads to a lingering finish.
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
SAVAGE
Red – 2019
CHF 25.90 instead of CHF 35.00
93 Points by Wine Spectator
The 2019 Savage Red is a dense, dark, powerful red wine from a forceful, concentrated, mineral-driven vintage. On the nose, this red wine has aromas of intense earthy red and black berries, black cherries, pink musk, savory notes of cured meat, black olives and a juicy complexity of cedar spices. Through 70% whole cluster fermentation, the palate shows distinct chalky mineral tannins with lively-fresh, crisp acids from the granite soils. Raspberries and blueberries come to the fore in this dense, powerfully structured wine which gains in richness and intensity as it slowly unfolds in the glass. The Savage Red displays focused power and concentration along with an opulent richness framed by a stony minerality. A wine with undeniable focus and structure, but also with an abundance of seductive charm.
Clearance Sale
VILAFONTÈ
Seriously Old Dirt – 2019
CHF 19.90 instead of CHF 39.00
92 Points by Wine Spectator
The 2019 Seriously Old Dirt has a brilliant, deep garnet-red color. This wine offers aromas of fresh plum, black cherry, and blackberry along with warm notes of baking spice and vanilla bean. Subtle licorice and enticing tobacco and hazelnut aromas add a luxurious dimension. On the palate, the ripe black cherries develop into a beautiful minerality and a long-lasting finish. Lush and supple, with a line of acidity that provides elegance and balance. Although more firmly structured than its predecessors, this vintage remains true to the essence of Seriously Old Dirt, with an accessible, youthful energy.
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HAMILTON RUSSELL
Southern Right – Pinotage – 2020
CHF 29.00 instead of CHF 35.00
91 Points by Wine Spectator
Southern Right redefines Pinotage with this intense, classically styled wine from clay soil, packed with complex berry fruit, beautiful tannins, and subtle oak spice. The full ripeness and longer hang time offered by the cooler sites, combined with the complex, classic fruit flavors and structure resulting from the clay-rich soil, make this wine a highly individual expression of South Africa's unique grape variety.
Hammer Deal – incl. 3 CHF Charity
CHOCOLATE BLOCK
FOR JONNY FISCHER’S AFRIKA CHARITY – 2020
CHF 27.90 instead of CHF 34.90
92 Points by Wine Spectator
On the nose, the Chocolate Block is deep and dark, enticing with aromas of black fruits and a hint of pepper and spices. The blueberry and blackberry aromas of the bouquet continue on the palate with flavors of dark plums, dust, graphite, and cocoa nibs. The wine is concentrated and elegant, with fresh and well-integrated acidity followed by fine-grained tannins that give it an exceptional structure. Blackcurrants and milk chocolate linger in a silky finish.
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
BOSCHKLOOF
Syrah – 2019
CHF 19.90 instead of CHF 29.00
91 Points by Wine Spectator
The nose reveals red and black berries, white pepper, herbs, and lilies. On the palate, the wine is wonderfully balanced with clear fruit, bright acidity, and fine tannins. Great depth of flavor without being too heavy makes it almost irresistible.
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
RUST EN VREDE
Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019
CHF 27.90 instead of CHF 37.50
93 Points by Wine Spectator
Vibrant purple-red with distinct red and black cherry on the nose. Dark chocolate, cedar, and pencil lead notes add complexity and typicity to this Helderberg Cabernet. The palate is structured with fresh acidity and robust tannins that will balance beautifully over time. Cherry notes on the palate increase in intensity and complexity, with cassis, blackberries, liquorice, and a pinch of black pepper rounding off this Cabernet Sauvignon.
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
RUST EN VREDE
Estate – 2018
CHF 36.90 instead of CHF 49.00
92 Points by Wine Spectator
Rich aromas of cassis and mulberries with cedar and tobacco form the backbone of the wine, contributed by the Cabernet Sauvignon. This is followed by fresh red and black cherries with peppery spice from the Syrah component. Intense fruit aromas are overlaid with mocha, Christmas cake, sandalwood, and leather, adding complexity to the wine. Fresh, fruity acidity balances the firm, enveloping tannins, culminating in a clean, dry finish that indicates excellent aging potential.
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
RUST EN VREDE
Shiraz – 2018
CHF 27.90 instead of CHF 37.50
92 Points by Wine Spectator
In a dark ruby red with a violet rim, the Rust en Vrede Estate Vineyard Syrah flows into the glass, exuding complex aromas of olive tapenade, red berries, delicate vanilla, and milk chocolate. On the palate, it is full-bodied, somewhat wild, and with a subtly mineral core. A hint of roasted herbs and smoked meat combines with fine-grained tannins, ending in a soft and fruit-driven finish.
Killer Deal – from 6 bottles
WARWICK
Blue Lady – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018
CHF 25.90 instead of CHF 39.00
92 Points by Wine Spectator
Here you'll find the most attractive bouquet of the latest Warwick releases: pure blackberry and blueberry, laced with graphite and subtle undergrowth scents. There is impressive harmony here. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with juicy, ripe tannins. It is built around a core of graphite-infused black fruit with notes of black olive and brine, and the structure on the finish is impressive and remarkably fresh. The aftertaste offers crisp black pepper, complementing a very fine Cabernet from the estate.
Issue of "Wine Spectator", from 31.08.2022
All prices in CHF incl. VAT. Daily price as of 07.09.2022.
Offers valid while stocks last. Errors and price changes reserved.
